When I first heard that Zareh, a Melbourne-based Armenian-Lebanese eatery, had been crowned Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant of the year, my initial reaction was one of surprise—not because the food isn’t exceptional (it undoubtedly is), but because it marks a significant shift in what we traditionally celebrate as ‘award-worthy’ cuisine. What makes this particularly fascinating is that the award has historically been dominated by European-leaning fine dining establishments. Zareh’s win feels like a cultural reset, a recognition that casual, culturally rich dining experiences can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the most refined culinary institutions.
In my opinion, Zareh’s success is a testament to the evolving Australian palate. Co-owners Tom Sarafian and Jinane Bou-Assi have crafted a menu that is deeply personal, blending Armenian, Egyptian, and Lebanese influences with local Australian ingredients. For instance, their aish baladi uses flour milled in the Mornington Peninsula, while their kafta nayyah features raw minced lamb from Tasmania and Victoria. This fusion of heritage and locality is more than just a culinary trend—it’s a reflection of Australia’s multicultural identity.
What many people don’t realize is that Zareh’s win is also a political statement. Sarafian himself described the restaurant as a ‘love letter’ to Lebanon for welcoming Armenians after the genocide. This raises a deeper question: Can food be a form of cultural diplomacy? Personally, I think it can. Every dish at Zareh tells a story of resilience, migration, and cross-cultural exchange, making it more than just a meal—it’s an experience that challenges diners to think beyond their plates.
The broader implications of this award are worth exploring. At the ceremony, winners like Marc Polese of Beppi’s and ‘Big’ Sam Young of Young’s Palace explicitly acknowledged the role of immigrants in shaping Australia’s dining scene. Polese’s tribute to immigrant workers felt especially poignant in today’s political climate, where immigration is often framed as a problem rather than a solution. If you take a step back and think about it, this award ceremony became a platform to celebrate diversity at a time when it’s needed most.
Another detail that I find especially interesting is the rise of ‘modern Indian’ cuisine, as exemplified by Saavni Krishnan and Aditya Suresh of Saadi. Their win highlights a growing trend of first-generation migrants redefining traditional cuisines for a global audience. What this really suggests is that authenticity isn’t about rigidly preserving the past—it’s about evolving while staying true to one’s roots. Their dish sundarkala, featuring hand-rolled wheat noodles from Uttarakhand topped with Northern Territory barramundi, is a perfect example of this balance.
From my perspective, the most compelling aspect of this year’s awards is how they challenge our preconceptions about what constitutes ‘great’ food. Zareh’s casual approach, Stephanie Alexander’s decades-long legacy, and the recognition of front-of-house personalities like Sam Young all point to a more inclusive definition of culinary excellence. What this really suggests is that the future of dining isn’t just about Michelin stars—it’s about storytelling, community, and cultural exchange.
As I reflect on Zareh’s win, I’m reminded that food is never just about sustenance. It’s a medium through which we express identity, share history, and build connections. In a world that often feels divided, perhaps the most radical thing we can do is sit down together and share a meal. And if that meal happens to be at Zareh, all the better.
